New Zealand is world-renowned for its “Great Walks,” but for those seeking a deeper connection to the wilderness—away from the crowds and the rigid booking systems—the Hollyford Track in Fiordland National Park offers something truly special.
Most hikers begin the Hollyford Track with a gentle transition, stopping at Hidden Falls Hut for their first night. However, when the Fiordland weather offers a rare window of clear skies and sunshine, sometimes the best move is to keep the boots moving.
In my latest video, I skip the traditional first stop at Hidden Falls Hut, and push all the way from the road end to Lake Alabaster Hut in a single, immersive day of solo backpacking.
Leaving the Road Behind
The journey starts in the deep greens of the beech forest, following the path of the Hollyford River. Without the typical Fiordland drizzle, the forest takes on a different character—light filters through the canopy, highlighting the vibrant mosses and ferns that define this glacial valley.
Beyond Hidden Falls
Reaching Hidden Falls is usually a milestone that signals the end of the day’s effort. After stopping to take in the 31-meter drop of the falls, I made the decision to keep going.
The section between Hidden Falls and Lake Alabaster is where the track starts to show its teeth. You leave the flat valley floor for the Little Homer Saddle. This climb provides a significant change in perspective, offering glimpses of the surrounding Darran Mountains that are often hidden by clouds. Little Homer Falls is another beautiful waterfall along this trail, and the bridge had been wiped out by a storm, so I had to cross the creek by hopping across rocks. Luckily the water was low, and I didn’t get my feet wet.
The Arrival: Lake Alabaster (Wawā)
Arriving at Lake Alabaster Hut after a dual-section day is an incredible feeling. The lake itself is a stunning sight—a vast, serene body of water framed by steep, forest-clad mountains.
Pushing through allowed me to experience the transition from river valley to lakeside wilderness in one continuous flow, heightening the sense of isolation and immersion that makes the Hollyford so special.
Experience the Journey
This video captures the entire Day 1 push in a “place over personality” style. No talking, no distractions—just the rhythm of a long day’s hike and the natural soundscape of the New Zealand backcountry.
Solo Backpacking the Hollyford Track | Road End to Lake Alabaster
You may also be interested in my second day along the Hollyford Track Hiking the Demon Trail | Hollyford Track Day 2